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Pics from our recent trip to Lisboa and Granada (Spain)

April 17, 2007

One of the most impressive palaces I've ever seen is the Alhambra, in Granada, Andalucia. It is hauntingly beautiful, set amidst the snow-covered Sierra Nevada (and the highest mountain in the Iberian Peninsula, Mount Mulcahen - which I briefly considered climbing, till I realized I needed crampons).  It was built by the Moors back in the 12th-13th century. Quite surprising were the hammams  (aka Saunas).  I didn't realize this technology was actually applied way back then. The saunas were massive - perhaps enough to service 250 people. Water was piped in, from several miles away. Servants would burn firewood  to would  heat the hammam's floor. Then cold spring water, when allowed to flow through the hammam's floors, would burst into steam. The Hammams had curved glass roofing, so you could see the sun while enjoying a steam bath. When we were there, temperatures were at 5 degrees Celsius; you could very well appreciate what a luxury these baths were.  Man, these guys really knew how to live!  

 

 

                                                  

 

Even more impressive, were the painstakingly ciphered halls. Upon close inspection, you notice that the arabic print on the stucco walls repeated the same phrase over and over. Over and over, room after room, from bottom to the valuted ceiling. It said "There is no Winner but Allah". How about that. The moors build this achingly beautiful palace, set it at  a high promontory, fill it with well-manicured gardens, and the best creature comforts that 12th century technology can offer, subjugate the Spanish, and in the end, this is phrase they chisel into their walls over and over, millions of times, to remind them to be humble; to remind them of their place in the world. Makes you wonder why the Spanish conquistadors thought of the Moors as barbarians.  

 

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